"Well, the beans were good and the Wonder Bread was white," I said. "Sauce not great, but the ribs —”

"You know what I mean," she said.

I did. I didn't say it like this, but I loved Crawdad's new squeeze for a lot of reasons, not the least of which was that I love everyone. I mean, we're all in this together, you know what I mean? And I loved the guy's favorite barbecue, and I loved his laugh, and you know his heart's in the right place, or else he wouldn't be crawdoodlin' the great Crawdad de la Cooter. Best of all, though: He ain't like me. If she'd of gone and buddied up with some other bowlegged starving artistical pirate-headed Ping-Pong-playing backyard philosophizing tranny-ass barbecued chicken farmer with a Chevy Sprint pickup truck, that might of maybe been tough. SFBG

K.C. Barbecue

Tue.–Thu., 11 a.m.–9 p.m.; Fri.–Sat., 11 a.m.–midnight

2613 San Pablo, Berk.

(510) 548-1140

Takeout available

No alcohol

Credit cards not accepted

Quiet

Wheelchair accessible